And now, I realise, it's the kind of place you could eat at every week and it would never feel repetitive. The menu changes regularly depending on the produce available, what kind of mood the kitchen is in, what new things they want to try. I love that whole concept. Just feed me please.

So we choose the "prix fixe" menu ($85) and that's what they do. I'll be honest and say I kind of lost track of how many "courses" that gets you. I'm dining with some old university friends I haven't seen in years, and the whole night was just wonderful.

We start with several little plates. Well the first is a bowl. It's a chilled tomato consomme, strikingly clear, a few drops of basil oil add a burst of flavour. It's refreshing but complex all at the same time. Every meal should be served with this, not a palate cleanser as such, more a palate reset. Perhaps we were meant to down it in one go but it was lovely to be able to go back to it time and again.

Next up is a "gim bugak" with whipped tofu, cured yolk and aonori. Gim bugak are Korean seaweed chips, a nori sheet coated with glutinous rice paste and deep fried. These are filled with whipped tofu, surprisingly tasty, and sprinkled with flakes from a cured egg yolk and some salty aonori seaweed powder. They're so moreish. Kind of like a posh chip and dip. I can imagine a plate of these, some cold drinks, the perfect summer snack.

Or maybe I'd choose the potato galette with philly and smoked roe. It's the most delicate galette I've ever seen, thin layers of potato, golden and tender, cut into tiny bite-size serves and topped with piped cream cheese and roe that pops in your mouth. It's indulgent and full of flavour, one of those dishes where you're imagining how you might adapt it for your own kitchen before you've even finished it.

Next there's the obligatory ceviche (never a surprise on a menu, but always welcome) served with a pineapple mezcal, jalapenos and cucamelon. It's a good move after the potato, fresh and light.

The sugar snaps with a whipped macadamia and bush tomato is another little plate that would work well on its own with some drinks. Maybe not on a date, for it gets a bit messy swiping up the macadamia with the peas, but that adds to the fun.

We're finally moving to the "mains", but they are still built to share. There's a charcoal-grilled kingfish in a bowl with a pale green gazpacho and ajo blanco. The fish flakes perfectly, the skin crispy and caramelly, the gazpacho like a light dressing.

And a good-sized pork cutlet, sliced to share, served with a rhubarb ketchup and local blood plums (from Gollion Farm). Pork and plum, a delicious combo, if there was one fault on the night, our pork was a little overcooked.

The "sides" were a plate of green beans with umido, ajo blanco, almonds, with still a little snap. And some multi-coloured heirloom carrots on a bed of harissa and chickpeas. Both were great.

There's a dessert too. The three of us share the two different choices. The chocolate cremeaux is a take on a Snickers bar. There's a malt crumb, whey caramel and peanuts for texture, and the creameaux is smooth and silky, not too rich. It's a long-time favourite with the regulars apparently but it might have some competition from the coconut milk panna cotta served with passionfruit sorbet, mango and makrut lime. It was like summer layered up in a glass.

The drinks list is as eclectic as the menu, with a focus on natural, low-intervention wines. It's been a longtime since we caught up so we lash out on a 2022 Giovanni Armani Giorgio pet nat from the Adelaide HIlls ($65) and a 2020 Commanderie de Preissan rose ($80).

The rose is French, and so is the vibe here. Just back from Paris, Onzieme wouldn't be out of place in the 11th arrondissement, where Couttoupes used to work and live.

Do the French thing in the heart of old Kingston. Duck downstairs to Bar a Vin, through the red door or claim a regular table upstairs and eat out every Tuesday. I know I'm going to. Finally.

Address: 35 Kennedy Street, Kingston

Phone: 0424 984 763

Website: onzieme.com.au

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm

Chef: Louis Couttoupes

Noise: It's busy, but conversation is easy

Dietary: Plenty of options