Forget what you know about pub food. Although you could hardly call Highgate Kitchen and Bar a pub. Formerly American-style pub Little Brooklyn and before that the Holy Grail, Highgate took over almost exactly a year ago, facing onto Green Square in Kingston.
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It still has the same pub set up, with a bar along one side, and an eating area along the other. But gone are the darker tones and heavier furnishings, replaced with a more open fitout, tealight candles on bare tables, plenty of greenery and mesmerising mint green tiling across the front of the bar. There's lots of seating outside under the trees that is far too chilly for this time of year but would be delightful in summer.
When Highgate opened, the owners brought chef Matthew Ouwerkerk from Sydney, who had previously worked at the Paddington Inn, Neighbourhood Bondi and Henrietta Supper Club. He brought his style of refined pub dining and created a menu that's less parmigiana and more poke bowl.
To start, the yuzu cured salmon ($16) is fresh and a generous serve. The citrus flavours are subtle, and it's instead bursting with a sesame and ginger dressing, sprinkled with pickled enoki and radish slices. At the other end of the spectrum, pan fried gnocchi ($13) is winter comfort food. Creamy on the inside and fried to a slight crunch on the outside, the three giant gnocchi pieces are topped with basil leaves and an indulgent whipped ricotta. Just delicious.
It's only when we start tucking into our entrees the we realise our drinks never came. Half a beat later, our waitress comes up and apologises about the wait - a large group arriving at the bar area created a bit of a hold up - but we're ensured they're on their way. And sure enough they're not far behind - a glass of peppery El Payador Mendoza Malbec ($9) and The Go To ($18), a light gin and elderfower liqueur cocktail garnished with cucumber and pear. It's a small blip but friendly staff handle things well.
It's not often on a meat dish where it's the vegetables that sing, but this is the case on the lamb dish ($26). Not that there's anything wrong with the lamb - the two chunks of meat are as they should be - moist and full of flavour with a bit of fat left on. But the pumpkin is where this dish shines, roasted well and zinging with a basil and harissa yoghurt and a black olive crumble on top.
The whole Highgate menu is well marked out for those with dietary preferences and requirements, with plenty of vegetarian, vegan, gluten free and dairy options. The roast pumpkin pizza ($20) even ticks all four of those boxes. The light and crunchy pizza base is gluten and dairy-free and vegan, topped with big hunks of roast pumpkin, caramelised onions, pecan, rocket and a house-made nut cheese. It's enjoyable even for a dedicated cheese lover.
For dessert the matcha creme brûlée ($12) is great to share. The gluten free dish has big chunks of coconut crusted almonds sit on top, and the burnt top gives a satisfying crack.
Highgate is the chic local you'd be lucky to live within walking distance of. They've turned pub food on its head with a menu that's refreshing and caters extremely well to every dietary requirement under the sun. It all adds up to a wonderfully pleasant evening out, with food that leaves you satisfied but not uncomfortably full.
Address: 44 Jardine St, Kingston
Phone: 6239 6891
Website: highgatebar.com.au
Owner: Alexi Dascarolis and Natalie Weber
Chef: Matthew Ouwerkerk
BYO: No
Hours: Noon-late, Tuesday to Sunday
Wheelchair access: Yes
Noise: Comfortable
Vegetarian: You'll be well looked after here
Score: 14
