When the steaks are high come dinner time

Part of me is thinking is it like those Chinese restaurants where you could pick our own (live) lobster from the tank and send him swimming into the kitchen. I'd like a steak cut from that side of beef there please waiter, and don't be shy.

It's a Tuesday night and we've booked via the online system, once I confirmed my plus one we could only get a seat at 8.15pm. The place is still busy, some large groups, some more intimate tables, we're placed in the corner on plush banquet seating with a view back over the restaurant. I like my seat.

I admit to my companion that I've been checking out the menu for a good few days. I usually order something I can't cook at home when eating out, never steak, because I'm a dab hand on the barbecue, but I've been craving a big slab of meat for a while.

We start with scallops with caramelised miso pumpkin and an apple radish salad ($22). It's a pretty dish, the orange of the pumpkin sauce bright and luxurious, perhaps a little lost against the deep red plate it's served on. The scallops are tender and well cooked, but with only four on the plate we're left wanting more. The salad is a treat, little slivers of apple and radish which cut through the sweetness of the sauce.

We toss up between the pork belly or the arancini and go with the chef's favourite board ($24), two each of the pork belly, arancini and little serves of king mushroom bruschetta. A clever way to sample a few things. The arancini balls are the highlight, truffle and parmesan with a lovely aioli; the pork a close second, brought to life with a black pudding crumb and little bites of crackling.

I knew days ago I wanted the surf and turf, memories of seaside holidays as a child come flooding back as soon as I hear those two words together. I balk somewhat at the $58 price tag, but I hope I'll be getting something more than a couple of prawns and a little piece of rump circa the Forster RSL about 1980.

I'm not disappointed. It's a thick piece of fillet, served with two Moreton Bay bugs and duck fat potatoes on what looks like a bed of kale. The bugs are delicate and well cooked, the flesh is easy to remove, I don't feel bad when I find myself doing this with my fingers to get every last morsel. The beef is cooked as I ordered, rare, perhaps too rare, my mistake, but it's well caramelised on the surface and melt-in the mouth tender.

Our other dish is the confit duck legs with beetroot risotto, baby turnips and burnt grapefruit ($36). It's another vibrant dish, all pink and golden brown. But the risotto is a bit gluggy and there's not a lot of flavour to the duck, despite it being very tender.

Our waiter brings us a Greek salad, which we didn't order, we had asked for the rocket and baby spinach salad ($9), and a side of tossed broccoli and cauliflower ($9), and they acknowledge the mistake and bring them quickly. Neither is anything spectacular but a refreshing accompaniment to the richness of our meals.

After a heavy meal it's always wise to choose a dessert that will leave you feeling refreshed so we go with the white chocolate creme brulee ($15) and the Japanese baked cheesecake (15) and we're pleased with our selection. The brulee is creamy without being overly sweet, the photogenic cheesecake is like a sponge cake, the accompanying vanilla gelato just tart enough.

The wine list here is substantial. A good selection of wines by the glass or bottle, Australian, French, New Zealand, with a couple of local offerings. We feel lucky being able to order a glass of Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz ($16) with our mains. One simple glass was one of the highlights of the whole meal. There's also a good range of dessert wines and whisky in case you're in for the long haul.

Which obviously we're not tonight. Despite the lateness of our booking, close to 10pm the waiter comes over and slaps the bill on the table to tell us they closed 20 minutes ago. No we're about to shut up, can I get you anything else, no how was everything. We're a bit taken aback. We're not the only people in the restaurant but they've made it obvious they want us all gone. The room's been transformed back into the hotel restaurant. Stainless steel bowls are full of Coco Pops and Cornflakes for breakfast for the guests of the Avenue Hotel.

We leave feeling disappointed. The food needs to be spectacular, the experience too, for you to ignore a dismissive ending. I enjoyed my steak but the end to the night left us feeling somewhat well-done.

Address: 25 Mort St, Braddon

Phone: 62469555

Hours: Monday to Friday: 6.30am-late; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays: 7am-late

Owner: Krizaic Family, Capital Hotel Group

Chef: Paul D'Monte

Noise: No problem

Vegetarian: Limited

Wheelchair access: Yes

Score: 14/20