The recent record-breaking run of sub-zero starts has resulted in even the most resilient amongst us reaching for that extra blanket. However, while some Canberrans grumble about our chilly winters (that on a global scale aren’t cold at all), for many it’s the distinct seasons that make our region such a great place to live.
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For me, one of my favourite aspects of a Canberra winter is the opportunity to huddle-up in front of an open fire. No, not those small fireboxes that you struggle to find slithers of wood small enough to cram in, nor those gas burners with pretend logs (although, I do recognise their environmental benefits). I mean those grand old-fashioned fires where you can listen to the crackle of real timber burning and watch mesmerised as their flames flicker.
These old-fashioned burners are fast becoming a dying breed, so last weekend I embarked on a quest to visit as many of our region’s most loved open fires as possible in a day. The catch was that I couldn’t just visit a fire to tick it off my list, rather while soaking up each burner’s ambience and warmth, I had to uncover the fascinating history of each fire. Here's the result.
10am: Brunch, Sweet Copper
With the temperature barely above freezing and with a heavy frost still covering the 100-year-old elm trees at its entrance, the trail of smoke rising out of the chimney of the historic Ginninderra School House that now houses a knock-out cafe-come-restaurant, House is a welcoming site. I can only imagine what a relief it must have been for the students and staff of the Ginninderra School when they finally moved into the stone building in 1884 after the school operated for two harsh winters out of a tent. And to think, today’s kids complain if the heater is on the blink for an hour or two.
As I sip on my morning coffee and indulge in a gourmet omelette and a croissant (well, I’ve got a big day ahead) I am in poll position in front of one of Sweet Copper’s three open fires, each complete with original mantelpieces. Owner Dale Breynard says the fires are a major drawcard, especially on extra cold days.
“When snow recently started settling in the village, I received several phone calls to see if we would be open and specifically if the fires were going,”Breynard says. One caller commented that after looking out the window that morning and seeing the freezing and blustery conditions, he couldn’t wait to come down here, grab a book, a coffee and settle in by the fire.
While there’s no white stuff falling from the sky today, the next port of call on my open fire pilgrimage is to a place in the ACT where there is often snow in winter, even if it’s man-made.
1.30pm: Hot chocolate, Corin Forest
OK, it’s a bit of a drive, but it’s worth it. Prior to 2003 a must stop on my open fire quest would have been the Cotter Pub with its four-sided stone fireplace, (which I’m still trying to find photos of). Luckily, the 2003 bushfires that sadly razed the Cotter Pub (and somewhat ironically it’s much lauded fireplace), didn’t destroy the other celebrated stone fireplace in our hills at Corin Forest.
While thrill-seekers hurtle down the slope of man-made snow in toboggans, inside the café the less adventurous thaw out by sitting around the circa 1983 fire and sipping on hot chocolates. Unfortunately, I don’t have time to frolic in the snow all day, so after the obligatory dash down the slope it’s back on the road.
4pm, Cleansing ale, Murrumbateman Country Inn
It’s my first visit to this rural watering hole and as the Yowie mobile pulls up outside this relatively modern brick building, I’m worried it’s not going to exude that old worlde charm that I’m searching for.
However, a few steps inside proves you shouldn’t judge a pub by its exterior. An eclectic mix of tourists and locals have popped in for an afternoon drink, and it’s a classic country pub feel that is set off by the woolpack stamps of local properties on the walls.
Most importantly, ''The Tav'', as its affectionately known, sports not one, but two open fires. The one in the main bar was hand-crafted from stone sourced from the Murrumbateman blue rock quarry and according to Dave Laird, the current owner, “apparently the lady who had the pub built in 1990 had the chimney pulled down twice until it was built to her high standards”.
And wow, what a fire it is. This is the closest to an indoors bonfire I’ve ever seen. As I pull up a bar stool, Laird introduces me to Peter Grubb, his “official fire stoker”, who has already stoked the fire with 28 tonne of firewood so far this season. Little wonder it feels like it's radiating enough heat to blister the paint on the cars outside in the carpark. “The secret to a good fire is that it needs to be too hot to stand directly in front of – you don’t want 10 ladies standing in a line in front of it blocking all the heat,” says ''Grubbie'', as he tosses another five (yes five!) caber-sized logs onto the blaze.
Not surprisingly, there are many tales about the intensity of this fire, including the bar fly who every Friday night apparently empties the entire contents of the indoor wood pile onto the fire on his way out, leaving a virtual inferno in his wake.
However, one of the most memorable fireside moments at The Tav occurred a couple of years ago when a band was belting out their tunes in the area adjacent to the fire. “Midway through a song the lady on piano started playing faster and faster to the point where the guitarist was struggling to keep up,” recalls Laird, who says, “as soon as she hit the last note she jumped out of her seat and ran out the door”. Apparently no one could figure out what caused the sudden departure of the pianist until, “we saw a brown snake coming out of the wood stack beside the fire less than a metre from where she was sitting,'' he says.
I’m tempted to stay here for dinner, but with the clock ticking, its back to Gold Creek and to my old stomping ground for the last two legs of my open fire odyssey.
6pm: Dinner, The Green Herring
Regardless of its pedigree, the fire in the 150 year old slab hut that houses this award-winning restaurant would still make my list purely on sentimental grounds.
Back in 1999, I accompanied a young lady on one of our first outings as a couple to a group dinner here in mid-winter. I rugged up for a cold winter’s night, but somehow scored the seat closest to the fire. I suspect some of Mrs Yowie’s friends, regulars at The Green Herring, were well aware of the heat thrown out by this fire (and the proximity of my chair to its flames) and decided to see how their friend’s new man would cope.
My jumper was off before entree, by mains my legs were almost as well done as my T-bone and by dessert I was down to my undershirt. Not a good look on a first date. Thankfully the young lady wasn’t scared off by my cooling antics and Mrs Yowie meets me here to reminisce.
“We believe the fire is the 19th century original,” says owner Max Terribile, who recently added an ''insert'' to the fireplace to keep more of the the heat within the restaurant, rather than it escaping.
Thankfully the tables aren’t as so close to the fire as they were on our first date 15 years earlier and more pertinently, much to the relief of fellow diners, I keep my shirt on this time.
9pm: Nightcap, George Harcourt Inn
Indulging in an after-dinner drink while nestled in one of the fireside booths at this landmark English-style pub, is the perfect way to celebrate a full day discovering our region’s best burners.
Adorned with all sorts of paraphernalia from the old dart, including gazundas (thankfully empty) dangling from the roof and pickled eggs lurking in jars behind the bar, you could easily be excused for thinking you were huddled around a fire in a 17th century pub in the English countryside.
Although relatively modern (the pub opened its doors circa 1982), “almost everyone requests a table by the fire,” says Shell Vicary, who has been pouring pints in this cosy pub for the past five years.
However, the undeniable star of The George is a fox. It’s OK, there’s no need to worry that your glass of Old Speckled Hen is going to be gobbled up by this furry fella though - he has been dead for 27 years.
After more than two decades of being a fixture atop the fire’s mantlepiece, several years ago Gil Miller, the previous owner was forced to ''retire'' the pub’s taxidermied fox, as it had become a bit tattered. “We hid it in the ceiling cavity where more than one electrician got the shock of their life when entering the manhole,” Miller says.
Much to the delight of regulars, the touched-up fox (however, still without its tail) has recently reappeared and once again takes pride of place on the mantlepiece. For how long though, who knows? According to Vicary, “just last month he was fox-napped”, but was returned after staff tracked down the perpetrators “who boasted about their prized bounty on Facebook”.
Sure, it’s not sustainable for every home to have an open fire, but hopefully a number of old-fashioned fires will continue to burn in our restaurant and pubs, bringing pleasure, ambience and warmth on a cold winter’s day.
Fire facts
Sweet Copper: Open Thursday and Friday 10am to 4pm and weekends 8.30am to 4.30pm. Old Ginninderra School House, Ginninderra Village, O'Hanlon Pl, Nicholls. Ph: 6230 9007. sweetcopper.com.au
Corin Forest: Winter opening hours: daily 830am-5pm Corin Rd, Tidbinbilla Range. Ph: 6235 7333. corin.com.au
The Murrumbateman Country Inn: Main bar fire is on all day, seven days a week. Function room fire is on Friday nights, Saturdays and Sundays. Cnr Barton Highway and Hercules St, Murrumbateman. Ph: 6227 5802.
The Green Herring Restaurant: Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday evenings, and café style lunch on Saturdays. Ginninderra Village, O'Hanlon Pl, Nicholls. Ph: 6230 2657. thegreenherring.com.au
The George Harcourt Inn: Open: Sunday to Wednesday: 11am to10pm and Thursday to Saturday: 11am to midnight. 3 Gold Creek Rd, Nicholls. Ph: 6230 2484. georgeharcourt.com
Contact Tim: Email: timtheyowieman@bigpond.com or Twitter: @TimYowie or write to me c/o The Canberra Times, 9 Pirie St, Fyshwick. A selection of past columns is available at
Where in Canberra
Clue: Artistic flair
Degree of difficulty: Medium
Last week: Congratulations to Steve Hill of Kambah who was the first to correctly identify last week’s photo sent in by Jennie Widdowson, as “the Mt Taylor Estate Firestorm Story Tree just off Bolden and Ammon Places at the north east top of Kambah”. Hill, who just pipped Kathryn Hailey of Kambah and Ray Blackmore of Pearce to the prize, regularly rides his “bike past the memorial to the 2003 fires”, which sculpted by Bryan Carrick “looks great and the views are poignant”.
How to enter: Email your guess along with your name and address to timtheyowieman@bigpond.com. The first email sent after 10am August 16 the correct answer wins a double pass to Dendy cinemas.
