Cam Ranh Bay, a piece of paradise with purpose

Once famous for its use as a base by a long line of foreign military and navy forces, this gem in Vietnam's south central coast region is fast becoming a key cog in a tourism boom helping the country bounce back from decades of devastating conflict.

When I arrive at the bay's first five-star luxury beach resort, which has been open just three years, it's hard to believe the area could have once had such a different vibe.

You won't find even a blade of grass out at The Anam, an immaculate 12-hectare property with 300 metres of Cam Ranh's Long Beach reserved for its guests.

The resort is operating at or near capacity on each of the three days I'm staying, but in this tranquil environment with about 3000 palm trees and massive amounts of open space, you wouldn't know it.

I've just flown about an hour from the kaleidoscope of colour and chaos that is Ho Chi Minh City, after a mad early morning dash to the airport that included the dreaded "final call" announcement and a warning that I had just one minute left to board my flight.

But I soon forget all about this when I arrive at The Anam, where stress simply doesn't make it past the lobby.

My garden view villa isn't ready for check-in when I get to the resort, but I'm not fussed about that because before I've even set eyes on the room, I've already gone for a swim in a pool overlooking the ocean, had a relaxing massage and eaten at two of the resort's four restaurants.

Guests don't appear in any hurry to leave the resort and explore the surrounding area, and this is hardly surprising when you consider how easily colonial charm and Vietnamese influence blend together in the resort's design and service to offer something for everyone.

At The Anam, there's almost always an option. Spending time in the water is a priority for me as I savoured a week in Vietnam during the freezing Canberra winter, so I whittle away more than a few hours in a pool overlooking the ocean. There are two other pools at the resort, which also offers a range of activities including yoga, beach volleyball, kayaking, surfing and sailing for more active guests.

On the all-important question of food, there's also a nice choice between traditional Vietnamese cuisine and European cooking, with two cafes and two restaurants all focusing on something different. Between the steaks at The Beach Club and the street food buffet at Lang Viet Restaurant, I find it difficult to pick a favourite. At Lang Viet you can even attend cooking classes. I'm the type of person who can barely cook a slice of toast without burning it, but with expert guidance, I manage to make myself a nice five-course lunch including Vietnamese hand rolls, a traditional sweet and sour fish soup and chicken with lemongrass.

But one of the best things about The Anam has to be the people. Nearly all of the 500-plus staff here are locals who have a refreshingly positive outlook on life and who can't do enough to make your stay relaxing and enjoyable.

Towards the end of my stay, I tour the bustling nearby resort city Nha Trang with Trung Nguyen, who takes me to a few of the most significant local sights including Long Son Pagoda, which features an enormous hilltop statue of Buddha. We also sample the local seafood for lunch at a restaurant by the water.

Back at The Anam, I also have a street food buffet dinner with Le Thanh Hoa, who talks about the opportunities tourism offers in post-war Vietnam. He calls this "the golden age", with the country home to roughly seven people of working age for every pensioner.

Talking to Hoa, you get the sense that this a country more open than perhaps any other to the idea of sharing its culture, its history and its beauty. The people here know real pain after decades of war, and this has made them optimistic and full of hope for a future increasingly reliant on tourism. All we have to do is embrace that and visit.