Ainslie's Edgar's has gone up a level - in more ways than one

Ainslie's Edgars has always been that place, a firm favourite since it opened in 2001.

Owner Frank Condi started working there not long after. He'd just returned from playing rugby overseas (yes, the brains behind Mama Dough, Shorty's, Lola's and Public was a pretty decent player back in the day - indeed he's just been named in the Royals legendary XV) and 12 months later he bought the place, his first venture. Almost 20 years later it still holds a special place in his heart.

"It is like home," he says. "I live around the corner, my wife works here, the kids come in before school, the dog runs around.

"But it's even more than that ... the Ainslie shops are one of the best in Canberra, we all know each other, the IGA, the takeaway, the chemist, the doctor's surgery, everyone pops in here, it's great."

And now Condi has done some home renovations ... he's put a second storey on Edgar's and revamped the whole place.

"What I'm hoping we've achieved is downstairs is like the lounge room, somewhere more casual, and upstairs there's the dining room, a little balcony, an outdoor terrace, it's like a little house."

The new area stretches from the front of Edgar's back over the space above Pilot and Mama Dough.

It's divided into three areas, each with a different feel.

The Inn is the dining area; it's not so much formal, but classy. It's a beautiful space with a wood-lined bar, raw concrete walls, upholstered furniture.

The star of the kitchen is a huge Asado grill, and the menu reflects that: steaks, charred chickens, roasted cauliflower, gnocchi with wood-roasted pumpkin.

If you're after something a little more casual, head out to the balcony area, where in the summer the shutters will be pulled up to reveal views across both Mt Ainslie and Black Mountain.

The perfect place to indulge in the share menu - a salumi plate, some oysters, or prawns - and a glass of bubbles or a local wine from the line list.

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The Wakefield Room at the rear will be used for functions and private parties. Once the huge windows were cleaned light flooded in, the space took on a whole new vibe.

Condi's always had a knack of finding that new vibe, whether he's opened new places, or tweaked his popular venues.

"It's important that people see you putting money back into places," he says. "It's about revamping and reinventing and looking after each other."

The new venues are open from July 21.

@theinn.edgars