Dear Prudence at the revitalised Sydney Building precinct is a pared back gem

Dear Prudence is a Beatles song from 1968, written for Prudence Farrow, the younger sister of actor Mia, who was with the Beatles (and performers Donovan, The Beach Boys' Mike Love, among others) doing a transcendental meditation study in an ashram in India.

Prudence was taking it all a little seriously, worryingly so, recounts Keir, so John Lennon wrote her a song "to hopefully, lighten things up a little", says Keir, (who began publishing Rolling Stone Australia in 1987, perhaps I should have found out the back story to his story).

Canberra's Dear Prudence might just be the perfect place to linger over a story, and a selection of its extensive and interesting drinks list.

Inspired by the "hole in the wall" bars of Europe, there's a range of vermouths, aperitifs, wine and cocktails as well as a short menu of Spanish-influenced snacks.

Keir has handed the reins over to master sommelier Chester Mok. Mok has a resume as diverse as his wine list. He worked as a chef at Tasmania's MONA, as a wine consultant in Jakarta, and in Canberra venues such as Monster Kitchen and Bar, Akiba and Aubergine.

There'll be a focus on wines from lesser known varietals.

"At the moment one of my pet things is looking at different international grapes grown in Australia," says Mok.

"I want to put wines out that people might not have seen before, take them on a little adventure.

"For me, one of the best things about hospitality is recommending things for people and having them put their trust in me."

Mok says there'll be a rotating by-the-glass list, broken down into accessible categories, "fresh and funky", "quaffers", "light and fresh".

"I'm working on some really simple notes to put on the menu and I want to encourage people to wander over to the shelves where the wine is and pick up a bottle, read a label."

The food menu has been led by Gerald Ong, who has finished up his stint at Project Enoki in Verity Lane Market. Think snacks such as losada pepper and stracciatella, as well as larger plates such as cuca navajas and xo, Adelaide Hills triple cream brie, fig, crackers and pickles and Deda Smokehouse sopressa with pickles. And don't miss the little bags of house Smith's Crisp. Sophisticated chips like you've never seen before.

Mok wants to take the pretension out of wine bars.

"The last thing we want is for anyone to feel like they shouldn't be here, or feel out of place. We want people to relax for a second, have a chat and find something cool."

Perhaps Prudence would have left her room in the ashram if she had a table at this pared down little gem.