Restaurant review: Akiba, on Bunda Street, still at the top of its game

This latest visit comes just as Canberra's wet winter weather sets in - the type of weather that makes you wonder if it's time to fish out the beanie and scarf from the drawer. Despite this - and the fact that it's a Monday - Akiba is bustling. It's hard to imagine it quiet. The space is always filled with energy that just seems to draw people in.

Despite looking exactly how it did on my first visit, there is still a fresh, modern vibe to Akiba with its neon lights and the kitchen placed in the centre of the action. This is not a place to come for a quiet meal, but there is also something to be said for a venue that makes you feel like you're at the heart of it. As long as you can hear your conversation - which we can - this can only can add to the experience.

Looking at the drinks menu, there's an extensive list of wines - both local and otherwise - as well as cocktails, which always go down a treat. But a sign for hot sake catches our eye on the way to our table, and since Akiba boasts the most extensive sake menu in Australia, it seems our mind is made up before we even sit down.

For tonight's dinner, we opt for the Luxe set menu ($70) - one of two set menus offered, alongside the other, smaller, Feed Me option. As the Luxe includes everything we would choose anyway, it's a no-brainer.

The first dish that heads to our table is tuna tartare, which has humble prawn crackers - something no takeaway Chinese can go without - sticking out the top of the dish, almost like a crown. When used them to scoop up the tuna, it adds a crunchy element to the dish, which has a bright, citrus element thanks to the ginger ponzu that balances well with the fresh fish.

Sashimi is something I love ordering when I go out. The kingfish sashimi, itself, is full of flavour - I like it when you can tell how fresh the seafood is because it still has that hint of the ocean in the flavour. And I like the idea of pairing it with the nam jim; from a presentation point of view, there seems to be the right amount added. However, the sauce is a little heavy on the garlic, making it take centre stage, rather than giving the fish the spotlight.

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The Korean beef tartare, however, was our favourite dish of the night. It's one of those dishes that, when shared, has you noting just how much your dining partner has had to ensure you get your fair share (or a little bit more). It gave me deconstructed burger vibes - in the best way possible. Sitting on top of a hoisin kewpie sauce, the tartare was mixed with finely diced pickles. Shaved cassava was then placed on top - giving it a slightly nutty taste. It's the perfect balance of flavours.

The bao buns have almost become a staple on Asian menus across the capital - they're a crowd-pleaser, but there's plenty of competition. These soft shell crab bao buns are generous with the filling - the crab is almost falling out of the bun itself. It's served with pickled baby gem and creamy ponzu miso, but they get lost against the flavour of the crab and I wouldn't have minded a little extra, but all around it's pleasing.

They come alongside eggplant with pepita seeds, puffed rice and nori, which doesn't disappoint. It is perfectly cooked, and it has a nice mix of textures. Then comes the salt and Sichuan pepper squid. There's always a place for Sichuan pepper, but in this instance, it's somewhat overpowering. And the onsen, while creamy and beautifully gooey when you break it open - is not enough to go around with the squid.

We round out the savoury dishes with cone bay barramundi with miso lemon butter, pickled enoki and green chilli, Kobe skirt teriyaki and black sesame, and green papaya salad with bean shoots, peanuts, chilli and lime.

The barramundi is executed well - the meat flakes off and the skin is lovely and crispy, and the topping of miso lemon butter, pickled enoki and green chilli rounds out the flavours without overshadowing the fish. The Kobe skirt teriyaki is cooked over coal, giving it a charcoal flavour and crispy texture on the outside, which I love. And with minimal toppings, this dish is a great example of restraint - letting the meat speak for itself.

A bright addition to this round is the green papaya salad. It has a crispness to it - enough to make you forget the winter weather outside, and get ready to welcome salad season once again. I'm almost sad it didn't come out sooner because it is a great in-between dish.

We finish up with Valrhona chocolate with miso salted caramel and luxe gold. I'm usually one to opt-out of chocolate desserts, often finding them too heavy after a big meal (and can you blame me - did you see how much food there was?) But this dessert is unexpectedly light, the chocolate dome filled with ice cream and the miso caramel inside. With just a hit of saltiness to it, it's quite morish and a great way to finish the meal.

Akiba has comfortably made itself at home as one of the capital's best restaurants. And to be so consistent with thousands of people coming through its doors every week - plus the many now taking up the recent addition of a takeaway service - I imagine it will continue to be considered a must-go for years to come.

Address: 40 Bunda Street, Canberra

Phone: 6162 0602

Website: akiba.com.au

Hours: Monday to Wednesday, 5pm to 11pm. Thursday to Sunday, 11.30am to 12am

Owner: Michael Harrington and Peter Harrington

Chef: Brendan Hill

Noise: Quite loud

Outdoor seating: Undercover, heated options

Dietary: Some good vegetarian dishes and they also ask for dietaries for set menus