Restaurant review: Ondine in Deakin is a master of balance

What is it about this time of year that makes us think about slow-cooked braises? I don't know if there is a certain science behind it, maybe it's because I'm a creature of habit who grew up in a household that brought out the slow cooker as soon as the mercury got below a certain point. But it's something that I always crave this time of year, it's like a warm hug in food form. Particularly when it's done well. You know, the type of food where the meat falls apart as soon as you put the fork into it. And this is exactly what you get at Ondine in Deakin. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Friday night dinner is a coveted spot on the menu-planning schedule, usually reserved for something that helps you unwind after a long week at work. And it seems it's not only us who have chosen to head to Ondine to do just this. The restaurant doesn't feel crowded. It has an intimate feeling to it, and if you didn't take a moment to look up from your meal you would be forgiven for thinking that you had booked a private dinner. But for those of you that do, you'll notice that other tables have filled up around you, all with people looking for something more than your average Friday night meal. Ondine places itself as a European brasserie but with dishes including snails in Paris butter, it's easy to see the French influence here. Tonight we choose the banquet option ($79pp) which starts with a salt cod mousse with sourdough and cultured butter. I love a dish that surprises you and this is it. The mousse is not overly fishy and almost has a sweetness to it, pairing lovely with the lemon in the cultured butter. Any mousse that is not spread on top of the sourdough is quickly scooped onto our spoons to make sure nothing has gone to waste. MUST READS: The hazelnut éclair filled with chicken liver pate comes out next. My éclair experiences are usually of the dessert kind, this may have just made me a convert. The hazelnut choux pastry has a nice crunch to it, and the pate is served with pickled onion and radish which gives it a nice acidity. The dish itself is just a small morsel, but combined with the next one - a silky smooth roasted half-shell scallop, with perfectly crispy potato crumble and pickled fennel - it doesn't feel out of place and offers a break in what is set to be a filling set menu. These are the only small bites on the menu, however, marked by the butternut fondant, crème fraiche sauce and spiced pumpkin seeds which heads out next. The butternut pumpkin fondant is al dente and has a richness to it, that pairs well with the nuttiness of the pumpkin seeds and the almost stuffing-like element underneath it. But next comes the main event. This dish had me thinking of family dinners in the middle of winter. The beef bourguignon. The meat is incredibly rich and just melts in your mouth. Any winter blues are just swept away with a mouthful of this. It's served with an incredibly smooth mash potato - I mean, is there any other option with beef bourguignon? - as well as a side serve of green beans, with hazelnuts and pickled onion sprinkled on top. I would have loved more sauce in the beef bourguignon, particularly as any excess sauce was soaked up by the mash. Tonight is rounded out by poached pear, caramel praline custard and hazelnut dacquoise. It wasn't the prettiest dish of the night - although I should note when our photographers went to take a photo of the dish it was plated up differently. That being said it was a great way to finish the meal. The dessert wasn't overly sweet and continued on the hazelnut train first created by the éclair, and then continued with the green beans, and general nuttiness of the butternut pumpkin. It feels like this set menu has been well thought through in terms of the overall experience. There are stars - the beef bourguignon and the salt cod mousse - but nothing is out of place. It's clear the chef has thought about it as an entire experience, rather than just a highlights reel that other restaurants opt for. There's a feeling of balance when you leave for the night. And that's the entire Ondine experience. Everything is intentionally curated, making it one of Deakin's not-so-hidden gems. If you're jealous that Deakin locals have this in their backyard, you are right. But for everyone else who is not so lucky, it is more than worth the detour away from Canberra's restaurant hubs. Address: 7 Duff Place, Deakin Phone: 6282 0026 Website: ondine.com.au Hours: Tuesday to Thursday, 5pm to 9pm. Friday and Saturday, 12 to 2.30pm, and 5pm to 9pm. Owners: Daniel Giordani, Abel Bariller and Keaton McDonnell Chef: Keaton McDonnell Dietary: Limited options Noise: Not a problem Outdoor: No seating outdoors. Our journalists work hard to provide local, up-to-date news to the community. This is how you can continue to access our trusted content: