Restaurant review: the pace is quick at Kinn Thai but it doesn't detract from the food

We had pencilled in a 9pm movie and were keen for dinner beforehand. But it was already 7pm. What were our options now it was too late to book? My friend suggested Kinn Thai, nestled in the bottom of what is something of a rabbit warren at the base of the Canberra Centre, what with all the renovations going on. She was a regular and she guaranteed we'd be out on time if we could get in. So we chanced our luck.

And lucky we were. A few larger groups were in the queue ahead of us and this little table for two snuck in ahead of them. I love the idea that people queue to get in here. I always have. The place must have something going for it I've theorised, as Canberrans are particularly reluctant queuers.

I'd never been to Kinn Thai. I'm a little skeptical, if I'm honest, about big Asian restaurants. How much focus is there on the food or is it just all about customer turnover? How much of it is about what's on the plate, rather than the number of plates churned out in a sitting?

All it took was one bite of the first dish, a little vibrant green betel leaf with a tiger prawn and toasted coconut on top ($5 each), to prove me wrong. I was instantly transported away from this cold Canberra night to some tropical Thai beachfront, thinking about previous holidays I've had there where the food memories are among my favourite. With touches of ginger, a sweetness from the coconut, a juicy, tender prawn, I could have eaten these all night and I couldn't wait to see what was next.

My friend, being a regular, was in charge of the dish selection. She warned me it would come out in a hurry and I reckon within 20 minutes of sitting down all five dishes were on the table.

To start there was the betel leaf and a pan-seared scallop with chilli-lime dressing ($13 for two). The scallop had a nice bit of caramelisation, was tender and full of flavour, a tasty bite.

I was a little hesitant about the crispy eggplant fries ($18). Not a huge fan of the eggplant and everyone seems to be doing them with miso and cooking them til they're mush. These ones were great. Like thick cut chips with a light batter that didn't drown them. The eggplant still had some bite to it, the tamarind vinegar sauce a little sharp. It would be fun to see something like this offered as a bar snack in places around town, washed down with a beer. Very tasty.

Speaking of drinks. The liquid menu here is substantial. There are local and international beers, wines from Italy and, locally, both Nick Spencer and Nick O'Leary. Spirits galore. For something completely different we go with a rose, a delicate drop from El Desperado in the Adelaide Hills ($32 a bottle, $7.50 per glass).

By now the table is a puzzle as we manoeuvre plates around to make room for more. Next is a barramundi curry ($26). A well-cooked and generous fillet of fish swimming in a sea of creamy yellow curry sauce. The skin has been crisped golden brown, the white flesh tender and meaty. The curry is mild but full of those traditional Thai flavours of sweet and sour, salty and spicy. This dish would have perhaps been better had we not been sharing it. Not the dish itself, just the experience of it. I can imagine filling the bowl with rice - and here the rice was well-cooked, always an indicator of a good kitchen - soaking up all the flavours while flaking the fish into the dish.

The other main dish was a kana na moo grob, or stir-fried crispy pork with garlic, chilli and Chinese broccoli ($25). I'd had the same dish not long ago from the local suburban, I like the mix, the richness of the pork offset by some greenery. This was a completely different offering, fresh, light, the pork crunchy and tender, perfectly cooked, not drowned in sauce. Another pleasant surprise.

Within the hour we'd been seated, served and shuffled out the door. But it felt like we had still had a proper meal, one that was cooked with care and done with a little more thought than you expected. Kinn Thai is part of a chain, with restaurants in Queensland and Victoria as well, and there's obviously a well-executed way of doing things, the polite and efficient staff have it down pat.

The queue is still there as we head upstairs to the movie, more diners to be moved in and out in quick succession. I'm pretty sure everyone will be as pleased as we were. For a night that wasn't planned, it was great to see everything fall into place.

Address: 125 Bunda St, City

Phone: 62471277

Website: kinnrestaurant.com.au

Hours: Seven days, lunch 11.30am-3pm; dinner 5-10pm.

Manager: Sumitro Nasuriwong

Chef: Komsun Chanachai

Noise: It's busy but conversation is easy

Dietary: Plenty of options