Restaurant review: There's an atmosphere of generosity at Agostinis

I realise I've never been to Agostinis at night time and there's a completely different atmosphere. The rope hanging from the roof, in shades of red, pink and brown, throws a warm glow over the restaurant. You're warmed even more by the greeting from the friendly staff who welcome you like family.

It's the first night of the new spring menu. We love restaurants which acknowledge the seasons. Yes, there are some favourites which stick around all year and while you may have loved that truffle risotto you had last week, it's gone now. But now you're spoiled for choice, for this is a spring offering that is fresh and exciting.

The first thing I notice is that it's vegetable forward, there's plenty of seafood too. Sure, there's a big steak, a really big steak, a 1.2kg aged t-bone to share with a couple of friends, and a classic beef lasagne. The pizza menu is constant too, bianca and rossa-based, if you're that way inclined, or have hungry children to feed. They never disappoint.

But we're tempted by the menu proper tonight, celebrating achievements. We contemplate the "cena" menu, three courses for $75pp off a restricted list, but decide to go a la carte.

First up we share the calamari fritti ($20) with a lemon and mint aioli and the frico ($20), the potato and cheese "pancake".

The calamari is tender, about six rings on the plate, lightly crumbed and golden. The aioli is delicious, the mint gives a tang to the creamy base and makes complete sense.

The frico has been on the menu here for a long time and you can see why. It's kind of like a flat gratin with Montasio cheese and thin slices of potato cooked to perfection. I ask how it's cooked, with a green salad it would be an easy dinner at home for those weeks there's only potatoes in the pantry and a few stray bits of cheese lurking in the fridge. Carbs and cheese, you can't really go wrong.

Choosing mains is hard. There's so much that tempts. Pasta with peas, zucchini, mint and buffalo yogurt; baked zucchini with ricotta and Fontana cheese and radish; salmon with rocket and citrus.

The ravioli with pear, ricotta, sage and butter ($32) comes recommended so we order that. Pear seems an unusual choice in a main pasta dish so we're keen to see how it was done. There's a hint of cinnamon too but the sage pulls the sweetness levels back a notch, a good dash of pepper too. It's an interesting dish.

The pappardelle with lamb, white wine and rosemary ($32) is a little more traditional. Shreds of slow-roasted lamb nestled among thick strips of pasta, one of those dishes which straddles the seasonal change perhaps. It's still hearty, but not overbearingly so, lifted by the white wine and a touch of herb.

The star main of the night is the gnocchetti with scampi, vongole, ocean trout, garlic, chilli, white wine and cherry tomatoes ($35). Why have I not discovered gnocchetti before? Such a cute little pasta shape, for it's pasta, not potato-based gnocchi. A perfect accompaniment to the bountiful serve of seafood, a couple of crab claws for drama (it's served with a cracker), the scampi too call for hands on work (that's why there's a bowl of water for your fingers) what's not to like about eating this way?

If the lamb represented the transition from winter to spring, this dish sits at the other end, a sign that summer's not far away. Seafood, a touch of chilli, a warm summer evening. Bring it on.

One thing we've noticed here is that the service has it right. They give us a good break between courses, letting first the frico and then the pasta settle before they even ask about dessert.

We think about the dessert board to share but we all have our favourites.

Gelati is almost always too hard to pass up. Such a refreshing end to a meal, whatever the situation. Here, it's two flavours in a bowl or waffle cone ($12), five flavours to choose from. The lemon and strawberry sorbet a good match, tangy and fresh. The strawberry a deep red, it's gorgeous and tasty.

The chocolate cake ($12) is on the specials menu. Another firm favourite they serve all year round. It's moist and very rich, offset by a little scoop of ice cream.

The star dessert is the profiterole ($16). Just one. One big one, the size of a softball, with a crispy outer shell and airy interior, full of a Nutella mousse which has been dialed down, light and just a little hint of hazelnut. To dial it back up again, there's a little jug of warm chocolate sauce to dribble over the top.

We've had a great night, excellent service, quality food. Agostinis always feels like you've gone to nonna's for dinner (and your nonna is an excellent cook). There's a generosity of family about it all. And that's a good thing.

Address: East Hotel, 69 Canberra Ave, Griffith

Phone: 61780048

Website: agostinis.com.au

Hours: Seven days, lunch noon-3pm, dinner from 5.30-9.30pm.

Chef: Francesco Balestrieri

Dietary: Plenty of options

Noise: No problem, even with a crowd