There's something kind of nostalgic about the bistro at the Eaglehawk Hotel. Outside in the car park of the adjoining holiday park, there's a bunch of kids playing cricket; in the corner of the bistro there's a couple of those machines that steal your money as you manoeuvre a crane to grab a prize; in the far corner, out past the small bar, the bottleshop and the TAB outlet, there's a room full of those other machines that steal your money, the ones that are for adults only.
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It reminds me of all those places my family sought out on holidays. Somewhere my parents just knew would provide a good value meal, a little bit of light entertainment for both the kids and parents. My father would disappear for a bit after dinner to place a bet or play the pokies, and my mother could enjoy one more riesling in peace as my sister and I joined the throng of kids in the carpark outside. Remember those days, when you wouldn't worry about your kids wandering off outside? I miss them.
I've never been here before. I saw a social media post that the venue had been named as a finalist in the Australian Hospitality Association awards in the best steak category and in my quest for a good piece of meat, I decided to venture north. Well not too far north. It's literally six minutes up the road, but not the first place that would ever spring to mind if I was looking to dine out.
Well, that's all changed. Damon "Dozer" Townsend is behind the cash register as I order our meals. He asks me what my "local" is and I was honest and said I didn't really have one. One of Canberra's few failings is that there aren't many opportunities for "a local". I know people who religiously go to Raku. Edgar's at Ainslie is probably close. But I would never have considered Eaglehawk Hotel as a place I would be happy to call. I think I will now.
Sure it's not fancy. You pay for and pick up your meals at the counter once your vibrating buzzer has gone off. There's not an extensive wine list, although at $9 for a very generous pour of Nick O'Leary riesling who cares. You can also purchase a bottle from the bottleshop to take inside for just $5 corkage. There's also a fun cocktail list if you're that way inclined.
The interiors are standard bistro, a couple of booths alongside the window overlooking the car park, there's an open fire for winter, and the tables outside would be popular in the warmer months. In one corner there's a mini pizzeria if you like, churning out pizzas for takeout as well for dining in.
And it's busy, very busy. I ask Dozer if it's an unusual night and he says no. It's always like this. Big groups, families, tradespeople still in their high-vis, elderly couples, and plenty of kids. One elderly couple has escaped to the sports bar, eating their dinner in front of the Dapto doggies.
I just love every aspect of it.
And the food doesn't disappoint. There's something nostalgic about it too. It's been years since I've seen a stone grill, asked for Dianne sauce on the side, and had to get back up for more napkins after we devoured the chicken wings.
We made the rookie mistake of ordering starters and mains at the same time, so they all were ready at the same time. If you're going to order a few different dishes I'd recommend different dockets.
The three of us start with one kilogram of chicken wings ($23) which equated to about three or four each. Asian flavours, perhaps teriyaki, with a gentle chilli kick. The meat is tender and there's no shame in sucking it off the bone.
The house made chorizo meatballs ($24) aren't quite what I expected. Three large meatballs, rather than bite-sized ones. It didn't work as a starter to share. The meatballs were tasty, in a spicy tomato-based sauce, but were a little dense for our liking.
Mains we went with some classics. A grilled chicken burger ($22) served with some excellent chips. The chicken breast is grilled with some caramelisation to the edges with a sweet chilli mayo lifting this standard classic.
The chicken Kiev ($23) was a complete '70s throwback. A golden crumbed chicken supreme served on a bed of mash, its buttery garlicky juices flavouring everything.
And of course, the steak. There are so many choices. From a simple scotch fillet to the 1.2kg tomahawk you have to order three days in advance.
Tonight it's a wagyu rump. It's served raw on the hot stone grill. I'll have to head back to perfect the art of cooking on the stone grill, as it sizzles at the table. I was probably distracted by those chicken wings and I ended up over-cooking it a little as I like my steak rare. But such was the quality of the meat it survived my attempt.
And then all of a sudden I was 11 again. A trio of ice creams served on the cold stone, with crushed-up cone crumble, smarties and fairy floss. It was a joy to watch my children's eyes light up, and they're 20-ish. A fun dessert that was enough for all of us to share. The ice cream was better than expected, I dare suggest it was made in-house.
The cricket match had been called for bad light by the time we'd finished our meal. The place was full to capacity. A slight haze from all the stone grilling had settled in and the seventh race in Dapto was about to start.
The Eaglehawk Hotel isn't the place to go if you're looking for fine dining, but there's something pretty fine about a good value meal, with welcoming staff, plus a menu and a vibe to suit all members of the family. Is it my new local? Might just be.
Eaglehawk Hotel
Address: 1226 Federal Hwy Service Rd, Sutton
Phone: 6241 6225
Website: eaglehawkhotel.com.au
Hours: Seven days, 10am til late, bistro hours from noon til 8.30pm
Chef: Leonard Darmawan
Noise: It's busy but conversation is easy
Vegetarian: A few options
Score: 14/20
Karen Hardy
Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au
Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au
