Anna Petridis opens Mexican restaurant Cartel Taqueria in Queanbeyan

Because here we are, watching the sun set over the river, and indeed people are lining up and nobody seems frazzled by it, indeed there's a completely chill vibe to the whole night. And we like it.

Mind you, my companion tonight, a woman who puts the queen into Queanbeyan, is smart and she suggests we turn up early. We're there at six, get a table immediately, order without delay, grab our frozen margaritas immediately and dinner is on the table within 20 minutes.

The line doesn't get too long during the night, by seven there's probably about a dozen people in it, but things are turning over quickly. We're sitting outside under fairy lights, strung from the limbs of a most wonderful tree, there are families and groups and couples and everyone appears relaxed. Inside it's a little noisy and we're glad we're outside where conversation is easier even though there's a slight chill as the sun sets.

It is a Thursday night and daylight savings is over. I can imagine in the summer months that things might get a little more frantic but, as Petridis said when The Canberra Times spoke to her back when she opened, it's not her first rodeo (remember the freak shake?), and I'm sure she knows how to maneuver her business plan to make sure the place works as smoothly as the dulce de leche caramel sauce served with the dessert.

Which brings us to the food. It's a taco restaurant, simple. Eight different varieties (each $14), two beef, two pork, a chicken, a fish, prawns and a vego option of corn and zucchini fritters. There's a selection of sides, from guacamole to nachos and fries, and a sweet little kids' menu for the "ninos y ninas".

We share three different ones, they're pretty easy to cut in half which is good. A "los pollos hermanos", the "baja fish" and the "verdura", the corn and zucchini option. The tortillas themselves are tasty, and cheesy, they remind me of those delicious caramel bits you get when the cheese melts out of your toastie on the sandwich press, yet still firm enough for purpose.

Both the chicken and the fish have been crumbed with tortilla chips. What a super idea. It adds some flavour to the crumb and both proteins are still tender under the crispiness. The chicken is served with a good portion of slaw, the cabbage adding a freshness to it all. There's a housemade barbecue sauce which is rich without being overpowering, plenty of coriander and the right amount of cheese.

The fish is served with a grilled corn and avocado salad, red onion pickle, lashings of coriander and an avocado cream. It's fresh and bright and a good choice.

I'm a little disappointed in the verdura. They're tasty, with guacamole and some caramelised onion adding a real depth but I was expecting more from the fritters, some crisp would have been nice.

Apparently the place goes through more than 1000 avocados a week. The guacamole here is a revelation. Smooth and creamy, a little kick, plenty of lime. Order it as a side and it's served alongside tangy sour cream and a mix of blue and yellow corn tortilla chips. This side on its own, alongside a couple of frozen margaritas would be a perfect hot summer afternoon.

Or maybe a cob of corn, with guac and sour cream and caramelised onion. Is there anything better than nibbling away on a full cob of corn? Perhaps not on date night, but this is a tasty dish.

Not that we need dessert, for portion sizes are large, we can't go past the only option. A tres leches cake, with the lightest milk-soaked sponge with lashings of mascarpone and a hint of cinnamon. It's served quite chilled which, even on a cool evening, is a refreshing contrast to the slight chilli heat of the preceding courses.

I like the slight chilli kick on the margaritas too. The rims of the glasses are coated with a chilli salt and as you sip the grown-up slushy there's a nice contrast. My passionfruit and coconut one is like a tropical holiday in a glass. There's sangria, which might be nice during the cooler months, a few beers and some Mexican sodas in a fruit salad collection of flavours.

It's been a good night. Petridis tells me the recipes come from her mother, Gina (remember her apple pie?) and there's a sense of familial generosity to the whole place. The venue is new and fresh but there's something homely about it.

This restaurant would work anywhere but how good that it's in Queanbeyan.

Later in the night someone does a burnout nearby and the queen of Queanbeyan proudly goes, "that's my town".

Burn some rubber yourself and get across the border to Cartel.

Address: Ray Morton Park, 6 Trinculo Place, Queanbeyan

Phone: 0439456563

Online: @cartel.tacos

Hours: Thursday to Sunday, noon til late, kitchen break from 3.30-5pm

Chef: Ryan Fabroa

Noise: Quite noisy inside

Dietary: Some options available