Soaring above the glistening water on a scenic helicopter flight, I can see the silhouette of a dugong meandering just below the surface. Nearby, the distinctive dark discs of turtle shells are also swimming above the sandy bottom. And, twisting my head to look out the other window, I spot dolphins surfing the waves towards the world's third-largest sand island.
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It's always seemed a bit strange that Brisbane - the gateway to the Sunshine State - is the only mainland capital that doesn't actually have any natural beaches where you can enjoy all that sunshine. But perhaps it doesn't matter so much when, right in its backyard, is Moreton Island, an incredible national park that offers some of the best of Queensland's coast in a convenient day trip from the city.
Boarding the ferry in Brisbane, I knew in my head that I was only going less than 40 kilometres, yet arriving, greeted by a stretch of golden sand, it felt like I could've been transported a thousand kilometres or more north to one of Queensland's more tropical island escapes. And up here in the helicopter, taking it all in, I realise there's more to Moreton Island than just the coast - trails crossing through the verdant heath, crystal clear inland lagoons, and rolling sand dunes cutting between it all.
If not having a beach in the city is the price Brisbane pays for having this on its doorstep, it's not such a bad deal.
For day-trippers like myself, the usual base is Tangalooma Island Resort, the main development here on Moreton Island (and a slight misnomer depending on how you read it, because there is no such thing as Tangalooma Island). First opened in the 1980s, it's gradually evolved over the decades into an ecofriendly tourism complex varied enough that it hosts international visitors alongside local families. It was even recently used as a filming location for Julia Roberts and George Clooney's new film Ticket to Paradise.
It's from Tangalooma Island Resort that I board the helicopter flight, but also where I'll begin some of the other activities to fill my time until the ferry back to the city. Perhaps the most exhilarating experience is the ATV Quad Bike Tour, up into tracks through the sand dunes, swerving between trees and testing the limits of my adrenaline on the corners. Although that limit is quite low, I discover. Starting slow, wary of my ability to control the bike on the sand, I do at least settle into it over the course of an hour and start to appreciate the scenery as much as the adventure.
For those without the need for speed, there's plenty to do around the resort itself, including swimming pools, kayaking, and paddle boarding. And just 100 metres off the beach is the most famous Moreton Island attraction, the Tangalooma Wrecks.
The cluster of 15 ships scuttled here between 1963 and 1984 was originally designed to create a protected area for recreational boat owners to anchor, but as the rusting wrecks have attracted coral and other sea life over the years, they've become a focal point for swimmers. With just a basic snorkel kit, you can find yourself in an underwater world with dozens of fish species that call this artificial reef home.
It's not quite the Great Barrier Reef or the Whitsundays, but Tangalooma Island Resort does a good job of feeling like it almost is. Restaurants with decks out in the sun make for a leisurely lunch, and a cocktail bar hits the spot as the afternoon starts to glow. For some day visitors, vouchers for food and drink are even included, as are some activities, depending on what you choose when you book. (The basic package that includes boat transfer, resort facilities, and food voucher is $95 per adult, while the top package that also includes quad biking, helicopter flight, and a cocktail is $396 per adult.)
But Tangalooma Island Resort isn't just for day-trippers, and most guests will stay for several nights at one of the accommodation options ranging from basic hotel rooms to beachfront villas and multi-bedroom luxury apartments. Once you're here, it's easy to slip into island time and forget how close you are to Brisbane - although you may still happily remember the extra travel time you've saved by not going even further north.
It's also possible to bypass the resort completely and explore Moreton Island independently, with a slightly slower car ferry from Brisbane offering the opportunity to bring your own vehicle over (make sure it can handle the sandy roads, though!). There are a few other accommodation providers on the island, along with about half a dozen campsites offering easy access to fascinating walking trails, bike paths, or isolated beaches, where you can settle for a few days far from urbanity.
Brisbane residents (and visitors) tend to head to the Gold Coast or the Sunshine Coast for beaches, an easy one-hour drive to either region making them obvious choices for sand and surf. Perhaps next time, though, it's worth considering the ferry over to Moreton Island, which takes no longer, instead. An island escape from the winter, without the need to head any further up the coast.
Michael Turtle was supported by Brisbane Economic Development Agency. You can see more about a Tangalooma day trip on his Travel Australia Today website.
Michael Turtle
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
