Restaurant review: Gang Gang in Downer is so much more than a local cafe

Indeed, with all due respect to the residents of Downer, the suburb itself is a bit like that, not quite Ainslie, a bit too close to Dickson, those ugly pine trees.

But that's all changed since the Conway brothers, Sam, Riley and Max, took over in late 2020, right before the city went into lockdown. Like a lot of neighbourhood spots during this time, Gang Gang became a crucial part of the community, socially distanced catch-ups fuelled by good coffee, while the kids and the dogs ran around on the adjacent oval.

In 2022 they were offered the space next door, which used to be a yoga studio and health centre, and they collaborated with architect Nat Widera from Pierce Widera to expand the space and their vision.

Dinner service was always something they wanted to do and in March 2023 after the renovations were completed, it all became a reality.

What a transformation, in so many ways. Gang Gang is now a place worth searching out. There is a real sense of community, the service is casual but very attentive, there's live music and trivia nights, Sunday sessions where it's happy hour all day, monthly markets and a regular curry night on Wednesdays.

There's a large outside area under twinkly fairylights and inside there's an industrial vibe of sorts with exposed steel and glass, seating a combination of booths and small tables and high bar stools to provide options for everyone.

While you'd expect a place such as Gang Gang to do brunch and lunch extremely well, we're here to review dinner, wondering how a cafe elevates itself into the nighttime hours. With former Rebel Rebel sous chefs Jasmine Sawa and Chris Lenard at the helm, perhaps we shouldn't have worried at all. We're rather pleasantly blown away.

The inner north is humming with rumours about the pizzas - think roasted carrot with pickled heirloom carrot, parsley and agrodolce; or prawns with confit garlic, fermented chilli, cavelo nero, fior di latte and gremolata. Fancy as.

But I tell my companion, who admits she eats pizza here most Friday nights, that tonight pizza is off limits. We order a bottle of Linear Tumbarumba gruner veltliner, made by Nathan Brown (who used to own Pulp Kitchen in Ainslie), one of many unusual wines on the drinks list which is ever changing, and check out the a la carte offerings.

We start with a little plate of spiced calamari with a preserved lemon aioli ($9). The calamari is tender, the batter a little spicy, it's a generous serve too which is always a good thing in a snack to share. The aioli is top-notch, the citrusy kick a nice contrast.

Mains are a bowl of Jervis Bay mussels with a tomato and chilli sauce, aioli and focaccia ($32) and a half char-grilled pasture-raised chicken with chilli oil and ginger shallot sauce ($35); and we get a side of fries which will work well with both.

Indeed, with the jazz band playing (there's live jazz on Friday nights) and my moules frites, I could well be in Paris somewhere (yes, I know the dish is originally from Belgium), such is the vibe. The dish is delicious, about a dozen well-cooked meaty mussels in a sauce that's not overpoweringly rich. My companion tells me the way to eat them is by using the first empty shell as a tweezer-like spoon to pick out the other mussels and scoop up the sauce. Give it a try. But I reckon the focaccia is the perfect option for mopping up all that delicious sauce. The bread is fantastic and I'm hoping the cafe might sell it by the loaf.

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Now I know "moist" is a word that should be avoided in reviews but there is no other way to describe this half chicken. We think it may have been steamed, but our server tells us it's brined, char-grilled and finished off in the oven. The skin is caramelly but not crisp, both breast and thigh meat tender, almost melting in your mouth. The difference in the two accompanying sauces makes it feel like two different dishes. There's a depth to the roasted chilli oil that takes us to South America; the ginger shallot sauce straight to Asia, sharp and sweet at the same time. Next time we might try it with the iceberg lettuce salad ($12), tarted up with herbs, pumpkin seed oil and candied pepitas.

We probably don't need dessert but the jazz band is back for another set, so why not? The white chocolate and mandarin mousse ($17) is delicious. Even though it's white chocolate, it's not cloying in any way, it's light and whipped and the mandarin flavour is well present. It's topped with a little roasted rhubarb and crushed pistachios, served in a little old-fashioned fluted glass bowl. A lovely dessert.

The Conway family grew up in the inner north, all three sons now live in Downer, and the venture is supported by family and friends and a community that is growing every day.

Sam tells me, when I drop back in, that they wanted to create a place where they'd be happy to hang out. Say hello to them next time you go there. Because you should.

Address: Shop 4, 2 Frencham Pl, Downer

Phone: 6230 4070

Website: ganggangcafe.com.au

Hours: Monday to Wednesday, front of house 7.30am-3pm, kitchen 7.30am-2pm; Thursday to Sunday, front of house 7.30am-10pm, kitchen 7.30am-2pm and 2.30-9pm.

Chefs: Jasmine Sawa and Chris Lenard

Dietary: Plenty of options and things can be changed up

Noise: Not a problem, check if there's live music on if that worries you