The next generation steps up at the Poachers Pantry smokehouse

It was 1991, and Susan was the driving force behind what would develop into the award-winning Poachers Pantry label.

She always had a vision of a produce-driven venue, with food and wine at the forefront, a spot for weddings, long lunches and casual picnics on the lawns.

In the early years, Poachers supplied hotels and restaurants with a range of smoked goods. It didn't open to the public until 2001, out of the back of the factory. In 2002 an old cottage was converted into the Smokehouse Cafe and in 2016 a major renovation elevated the restaurant even further, with spots for wine tastings and a cold room full of produce and light-filled areas to dine.

Now 32 years later, Will and his partner Lauren Allen, who takes over as general manager, are shaping their own vision for the future.

"Sue and Rob have created such a legacy here," says Allen. "Now we have the opportunity to take Will's passion for farming and the family business and think about what Poachers Pantry might mean over the next few decades for us."

Will has been in charge of the vineyard (and the sheep) for the past eight years, working with winemaker Nick O'Leary to step up the wine offerings. The 2021 pinot noir won best pinot noir at the 2022 NSW Wine Show.

And then the hailstorm hit in January 2022 and the property lost all its grapes. Rebuilding the vineyard is a priority and Will's looking at different varieties such as tempranillo and sangiovese.

There are refurbishments happening in the 32-year-old smokehouse too. Two big electric ovens (which will in part be powered by the extensive solar power system, they generate close to 80 per cent of their own power) are being installed, able to hot and cold smoke up to 500kg of produce at once.

There's a small cottage near the smokehouse they intend to turn into a cellar door and smokerie.

"It will be a great spot for tastings and masterclasses and just something a little different," says Allen.

In the restaurant, head chef Jennie Tressler produces a menu that changes with the season and what in-house produce they might like to showcase.

The Poachers charcuterie board with smoked bresaola, prosciutto, ham and duck rillettes, olive tapenade and lavosh is a no-brainer.

But there's a smoked quail with blackberry glaze, Romanesco broccoli in Poachers bacon butter or 14-hour braised beef cheeks with pickled corn croquette, homegrown horseradish mayonnaise and a Nanima blend jus.

Will and his two older siblings grew up playing on the lawns outside the original homestead in the shade of the majestic golden elm where people now exchange their wedding vows.

Spring seems like the perfect time to plan a visit, there is a sense of excitement in the air.

There's a wine dinner planned for September 16, the wine club is being relaunched and Jennie Tressler is working on the new spring menu in the restaurant.

The first spring weddings are happening and the sheep are lambing. New beginnings all around.

Open seven days for tastings, with smokehouse platters and cheeseboard. Lunch, Friday to Sunday with two- and three-course options, from 11.45am.