The first time we dined at Poacher's Pantry was at some point at around 2002 and it was a grand experience. The last time that we dined at Poacher's Pantry, in October 2023, it was less than stellar.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
or signup to continue reading
Although this is an iconic venue for a Sunday lunch in the country, we were left underwhelmed by the ambience, food and service.
On that occasion, we were one of just four tables. This time, the carpark is full, the white roses are out, the music suits the mood for a hungry trek to the country and the place feels more polished. The large goldfish at the front door even look happier.
The reason for our optimism? A new chef is in town and it's Adam Wilson, who spent many years working as head chef at Otis in Kingston.
Arriving at midday, we don't get off to the best start. There is an icy cold wind blowing right off The Snowies, through the front door and blasting the table that we are seated at. There are only three other tables in the restaurant at this point and although we know that someone has to sit here, we decide that it shouldn't be us.
After some discussion with the manager, our waitress informs us that, indeed, they have the ability to relocate us, despite being fully booked for lunch. We move into the main room where there is a roaring fire and our comfort levels are raised from cattle class to business class.
There are six tables in the warmer dining room. It looks entirely possible to make that nine and if this restaurant was mine, it would likely be closer to 12. Space is the new luxury and out here there is plenty of it.
There are two options for lunch - three courses for either $75pp or $85pp, with the latter including a wagyu beef course.
A plump Three Mills sourdough roll, served with amber malt and dried cep whipped butter, gives us a preview of the flavours that are to come. The butter is soft and has umami deliciousness to it. We could be in for a treat today.
Jervis Bay scallops are the first entree, delicately sliced, translucent and served with shaved kohlrabi, black garlic, white soy, Sudachi tangerine, horseradish and macadamia milk. It's a lot of ingredients for just a few mouthfuls, but I like the statement that it makes. The action in this dish tastes even louder, and better, than the words.
The next plate is swordfish belly, served with mussels, cauliflower and harissa, preserved lemon, capers and persillade. It's a delicate slither of firm belly, grilled gently and the plump mussels mix well with a spicy kick from the harissa. It's more fine dining than rustic charm, but already my memories of the last menu are in the rear-view mirror, on a dusty, distant country road.
Roasted duck breast is served with boudin blanc, sauerkraut, pastis veloute, caramelised apple, parsnip and chestnut. This is a lovely winter dish and highlights chef's ability to transform a nice piece of Poacher's wood smoked duck into something exceptional. The flesh is firm but tender and the addition of the Germanic-style accompaniments work a charm.
There is a kimchi-like tang which contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of the apple. A generous bowl of symmetrically sliced radish with tahini, apple cider and lime vinaigrette comes just dusted with a spice which might be sumac. It provides a side saddle of creaminess and crunch.
The waygu striploin (mb5+) comes with soubise, whipped white polenta Bordelaise sauce. This should partner well with a glass of the 2018 Wily Trout Syrah ($15). The waiter gives me a spiel about their Syrah being a French version of a shiraz and the 11 different grades of wagyu, but I would reframe his pitch a bit to say that this is simply a decent glass of red and a great steak, served on top of a cloud of the finest polenta most likely to have left this kitchen.
Dessert is a shared plate of caramel chocolate ganache, served with cardamom and vanilla yoghurt, mandarin and gingerbread. The bowl is layered to contrast the sweet with the tart and the poached mandarins burst through the middle of both with a juicy citrus presence. It's a lovely way to wrap up a very satisfying lunch and I'm now convinced that chef Adam Wilson has made a huge impact at Poachers.
There is a difference between creation and generation. He is crafting some beautiful food here, opposed to my previous experience of a kitchen that was just assembling dishes from ingredients.
It's now 1.30pm and a lovely young couple arrive to be seated at the arctic table near the front door. They appear to ask the waiter if there is another table but alas, they are out of luck. Ours will be free in five minutes though, and I hope that they can be relocated to a warm spot in which to enjoy this delicious food.
They are about to experience a long-established venue on the rise again.
Poacher's Pantry
Address: 431 Nanima Rd, Springrange NSW
Phone: 6230 2487
Website: poacherspantry.com.au
Hours: Sharing lunch menus, Thursday to Sunday, 12pm.
Chef: Adam Wilson
Dietary: Check when booking.
Noise: Not a problem